Modifying the SparkFun Nano Power Switch

June 24, 2019

I recently obtained a SparkFun Nano Power Timer (PRT-15353) .his is a useful board that will power a device on at a given repeat rate. When to DONE it will power the device off. It will repeat this forever. It  consumes around only 35nA.

One problem with the first version of the board is that the TPL5110 on the board has an option to use a one-shot mode. When the power button is pressed, the unit will power the output for a given time and then power off and wait for the next button press. On the current revision of the board Pin 6 when controls this feature is connected directly to VCC. This puts it in repetition timer mode. To put it into one shor mode this pin needs to be grounded. Elias The Sparkiest at SparkFun has promised (will consider) that this will be changed in the next revision.

However they have over 100 in stock has k so it may take a while. I have figured out how to modify the current boards.

Do this at your own Risk!!!! This procedure is delicate and Tricky! There is a high probablity that you will damage your board and make it unusable. Neither SparkFunnor I are responsible if you break it!!!

OK. Now that we got that out of the way –

  1. You need to disconnect Pin 6 from VCC. Due the way the VCC trace is routed it is not possible to just cut the trace. VERY CAREFULLY un-solder pin 6 from the trace. The pin is very delicate and has a high probability for breaking off. (Ask me how I know :-)). Just bend the pin up a little bit.
  2. As an alternative take an Xacto Knife (new and sharp blade!) an slowly and carefully cut Pin 6 where it turns horizontal to meet the trace. Bend it very gently.
    Cut Pin 6

    DO this at your own Risk. This is a delicate and tricky operation. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGE TO YOUR BOARD!!!

     

  3. Using an ohmmeter insure that Pin 6 is not connected to VCC. Check Pin 6 to Pin 1. Also check Pin 6 to the leg of the push-button. Do not proceed if you see continuity!!
  4. Finally solder a small piece of wire (I used wire-wrap Wire) connecting Pin 6 to ground. Pin 2 would be  be good for this.

    JumperAdded

    Add Jumper wire from Pin 2 to Pin 6

  5. Now test it out!

JohnK

Loveland High School Robotics

9/7/2018

Today I visited the Loveland High School Robotics class. The have a First Robotics Team 1977 Power Squids.

I will be working with them as a volunteer mentor.

It was a very enjoyable visit. The had lots of interest in what I have done in the past. I brought Jay 10 my robot as well as my bionic hand. There were very knowledgeable.

I look forward to working with them in the future.

I am Back

3/25/2016

Finally I have returned. Last July I retired from Intel in Hillsboro, OR after 2 1/2 years. I moved back to my home in Firestone, CO.

I will be updating the blog more often now that I got organized (Organized. Really? – Linda).

MAVBots  projects:

As I am a volunteer Mentor for the Mead High School MAVBots robotics club I built a couple of bots for them:

  • A Sparkfun RedBot. I upgraded the Line follower sensor and added better bumpers. I also added a pen and lift servo so it can function as a Turtle-bot.

 

  • MavBot. This is a 310mm x 280mm differential drive robot. It is basically a Redbot on steroids.
  1. it has stepper motors (NEMA 17 – Left over from my 3D printer Project  (see below). I used two  Sparkfun Easy Drivers for control. http://www.sparkfun.com/products/12779
  2. Arduino Mega2560 for the brain. http://www.sparkfun.com/products/11061
  3. SD card reader. https://www.adafruit.com/products/254
  4. Line Follower Bar. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13582
  5. LCD Display.
  6. XBee Radio. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11373 and https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11215
  7. Polulu Micro Maestro to control servos. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9664
  8. Pen Holder with Servo.

 

 

My Projects:

 

Inmov HandInmov Hand

 

Inmov ForearmInmov Forearm

 

 

 

  • A clone of the TAZ-5 3D printer
    • 300mm x 300mm x300mm print volume
    • DUET Controller and graphics display.
    • Chimera Dual extruder

More to come

 

Stargate SG-1 Clock

1/5/2015

Happy New Year to all!

I still have been very busy at work. 12+ hour days 6-7 days a week. I even had to cut short my Christmas Break and return before the new year. We are bringing up 3 new tablets!

Things quieted down a little this weekend so I had time for a quick Project.

A Stλrgλte SG-1 Clock!

(Yes I know the character is wrong, but it is as close as I can get)

Here is a video:

 

More details one of these days.

JohnK

Getting ready for Portland Mini Maker Faire

12/6/2014

All,

Sorry for no updates.

I am working on a special project for Intel on the Edison which is taking all my time (even nights and weekends).

I may have an update before I go home for Christmas. I will be working on the motor controller and Quadrature encoder feedback to control motor speed and position.

Regards

John

Getting ready for Portland Mini Maker Faire

9/11/2014

All,

It has been a real zoo here getting my bot ready for the Portland Mini Make Faire at OMSI September 13-14. (Presented by Intel). I will be at the Intel booth presenting my Bot as a work in progress. Disclosure: I do work for Intel and they have been very supportive of this project.

My Bot now has a Name: 

JK-BOT (Mark V)

If is the Mark V as it is the 5th incarnation of my Bot.

I am posting a short video status report.  After this weekend I will go into all the details. Here is a link;

 

Back Again

August 20, 2014 (Updated 8/24/14)

Hi

I have been working hard and traveling to Austin, TX and Seoul, South Korea. That took lots of time along with the special projects here at work.

Well I’m back and working on yet another version of my robot.

I was not happy with the base of my previous version.  Due to the steel  I used in construction it was too heavy (26+ lbs), hard to work with, cut and drill, and it was magnetic. Being magnetic means that it work cause my magnetometer (used for  direction sensing) to not work.

The new base will be aluminum. It will have an outer frame of 1″ square tubing. The deck will be 1/16 aluminum sheet I got from Surplus Gizmos. It is a lot lighter and easier to work with.

I am still trying to figure out how to mount the electronics and build the superstructure (I.E. Body). I hope to have the motor mounted and the base electronics in by the end of the weekend. I will post pictures then.

Apdate:Here are the pictures of the new base with the motors mounted. Also I have added ServoCity to the list of link. I was showing the parts I use from them to a co-worker on Saturday and realized ServoCity was not included. OOPS. Since I use their Actobotics Logo - page parts and they really deserve a mention.

JohnK

The frame is 1″ x 1″ Aluminum tubing. The deck is 5/64″ sheet. Size is 24″ x 24″

Top view of the lower base.

Top view of the lower base.

Bottom view of the lower base

Bottom view of the lower base

 

Motor Mounts

Motor Mounts

 

Close-up of motor mount - I used Actobotics clamp style swivel motor mounts.

Close-up of motor mount – I used Actobotics clamp style swivel motor mounts.